Distance Today: 13.4 km
Total Distance from Oviedo: 77.1 km.
Elevation Gain: 369 metres.
Weather: Overcast/rain; cold
Too bad we didn’t read the guidebook about today’s walk from La Espina to Tineo ahead of time. If we had, we would have been forewarned about what was to come. According to the book: “The route leads along quiet country roads and forested footpaths, but beware that after rain the route into Tineo can turn from a pleasant stroll into a slow and muddy slog.”
That was definitely true after yesterday’s downpour. We had hoped to enjoy a welcome rest between yesterday’s strenuous climb and tomorrow’s mountains but, instead, it was a “muddy slog” as described. Stepping on rocks or on the higher outside edges of the trail wasn’t always an option. Also, it would have been a disaster to snag our clothes on the barbed wire fencing on either side of trail being that our wardrobe is so limited!
Making things even worse was the fact that trails are not used exclusively by pilgrims but also by farmers bringing their cattle to pasture. We waited while a couple of farmers and a dozen head of cattle came through and then the trail wasn’t just a “muddy mess” but a stirred up and fertile muddy mess!
So getting to the beautiful hillside town of Tineo was slower than expected but eventually we made it – dirty and quite relieved. We checked into the Pension la Posada where we have a private room with bath, breakfast, and a view for 40 Euros.
We showered, hand washed our clothes, and had a disappointing pilgrim meal at a nearby restaurant. We were the only customers there which could have been a clue about the quality of the food. We ignored the clue because we were famished and because yesterday when we were the only customers at a restaurant, the food was great. You just never know!
We are having trouble keeping warm here in the higher elevations and the heaters in our room aren’t doing what they are supposed to do. Going to bed early to keep warm serves the purpose, so here we are!
We doubt that our boots and clothes will be dry by tomorrow with our room being so cold. Usually newspapers are available to stuff into wet boots to help dry them out but, because newspapers weren’t available, I stuffed two ends of a towel into them and am hoping for the best.
P.S. It is now 8:30 PM and the hospitalera (Camino Angel) came in to check on whether our heaters were on. Now they are and we are getting warmer and our clothes and boots will dry by tomorrow. Happiness is… 🙂
P.P.S. Picturesque clouds are moving fast outside our window. Not fog. Clouds!