Distance Today: 15.1 km
Total Distance from Oviedo: 92.2 km.
Elevation Gain: 475 metres.
Weather: Sun/clouds/fog; cool
Highlights: Stunning scenery; Santa Maria de Obona Monastery
This was the most stunning day on the Camino Primitivo so far and could very well be one of the best days ever – anywhere! When the sun shines after the rain, when you are warm after you’ve been cold, and when the muddy trails are drying up, good conditions are better appreciated – obviously! Today completely made up for the miserable conditions we faced recently.
Coming out of Tineo in the sunshine and low lying fog was like a picture postcard. It was pointless to put our cameras/phones away because there was always another picture to be taken around the corner. This carried on for most of the morning.
After about 8 km we took a detour to the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which ended up being the second highlight of the day. It added about a kilometre onto the day’s distance and was so worthwhile.
The monastery was founded in the eighth century and experienced its peak during the 13th and 14th centuries, when a royal privilege ordered all pilgrims to visit. The monastery was badly damaged during the desamortization (privatization of church property) in 1835.
About a kilometre before we reached the day’s destination, Campiello, we met a farmer who paused at whatever work he was doing with his scythe. He spoke no English, but somehow we managed to carry on a brief conversation perfectly well.
He pointed back down the road: “Oviedo?” “Si, Oviedo.” He pointed ahead: “Santiago?” “Si, Santiago” He pointed ahead again: “Campiello?” “Si, Campiello!” “La cena (dinner) Mmmmmm” and gave me two thumbs up. I rubbed my stomach, gave him my hungry look, and two thumbs up.
Campiello is a quiet little village with two albergues. We checked into Albergue Ricardo (10 Euros each) where I had made a reservation. After getting cleaned up and settled into our bunk beds, Dave and I went for cervezas con limon at the Albergue Casa Herminia. What a lively place it was with the locals socializing, playing cards (unlike our 52-card deck), etc. The food smells great! This HAD to be the place the farmer was recommending.
Dinner at Casa Herminia was plentiful and delicious, unlike yesterday’s meal in Tineo. The dish we loved the most had chorizo sausage, lots of greens (maybe kale) and was an award-winner, according to the friendly cook (Herminia?). I wonder what’s for breakfast! 😋