Day 6: Tineo to Campiello
Distance Today: 15.1 km
Total Distance from Oviedo: 92.2 km.
Elevation Gain: 475 metres.
Weather: Sun/clouds/fog; cool
Highlights: Stunning scenery; Santa Maria de Obona Monastery
This was the most stunning day on the Camino Primitivo so far and could very well be one of the best days ever – anywhere! When the sun shines after the rain, when you are warm after you’ve been cold, and when the muddy trails are drying up, good conditions are better appreciated – obviously! Today completely made up for the miserable conditions we faced recently.
Coming out of Tineo in the sunshine and low lying fog was like a picture postcard. It was pointless to put our cameras/phones away because there was always another picture to be taken around the corner. This carried on for most of the morning.
After about 8 km we took a detour to the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which ended up being the second highlight of the day. It added about a kilometre onto the day’s distance and was so worthwhile.
The monastery was founded in the eighth century and experienced its peak during the 13th and 14th centuries, when a royal privilege ordered all pilgrims to visit. The monastery was badly damaged during the desamortization (privatization of church property) in 1835.
About a kilometre before we reached the day’s destination, Campiello, we met a farmer who paused at whatever work he was doing with his scythe. He spoke no English, but somehow we managed to carry on a brief conversation perfectly well.
He pointed back down the road: “Oviedo?” “Si, Oviedo.” He pointed ahead: “Santiago?” “Si, Santiago” He pointed ahead again: “Campiello?” “Si, Campiello!” “La cena (dinner) Mmmmmm” and gave me two thumbs up. I rubbed my stomach, gave him my hungry look, and two thumbs up.
Campiello is a quiet little village with two albergues. We checked into Albergue Ricardo (10 Euros each) where I had made a reservation. After getting cleaned up and settled into our bunk beds, Dave and I went for cervezas con limon at the Albergue Casa Herminia. What a lively place it was with the locals socializing, playing cards (unlike our 52-card deck), etc. The food smells great! This HAD to be the place the farmer was recommending.
Dinner at Casa Herminia was plentiful and delicious, unlike yesterday’s meal in Tineo. The dish we loved the most had chorizo sausage, lots of greens (maybe kale) and was an award-winner, according to the friendly cook (Herminia?). I wonder what’s for breakfast! 😋
11 thoughts on “Day 6: Tineo to Campiello”
Hurrah for a beautiful day, great scenery and delicious food. May the rest of your journey be equally delightful.
Thanks, Rosemary! We would like lots more days like this one. 👍☀️
Hi Judy and Dave
So happy you kept your cameras out.
Collecting lots of “best day stories”… love the fertile mud.
I can just smell it.
Sending you warm hugs and wishes for happy tummies
Love B
Hi Bon! Oh yes, it was stinky! 🐂🐂🐂🐂🐂
Lovely pictures! Hope you and Dave have many more days like you just described!!
Thanks, Jan. We are hoping for more days like this one. It was quite magical!
Beautiful scenery, thank you.
Maggie
The first one already looks like a painting, Maggie.
You guys are absolutely remarkable! You probably have a distinction, Dave, that we won’t mention. If you should run into Colin Carroll, it will be because you read so much of your first pilgrimage. Keep on travelling! Norm
Hi Judy
We are planning to walk the Primitivo in Sept. for our 60th years 🙂. I notice you have booked some accommodations. I’m wondering if you are booking them the day before or did you have your albergues planned before leaving?
Lovely descriptions of your experiences and very helpful as we plan our trip.
Hi Donna! I used Gronze.com and the Camino Forum in helping us decide where to stay. I made reservations before we left home, only because someone recommended that we do so. Now we don’t think it is necessary. There is always somewhere to stay and rarely are they full. If you want to stay only in private rooms, though, it might be more important to make reservations. The only problem is that you have to get to the place you have reserved. If you feel tired and don’t want to go that far or if you have loads of energy and want to go further, you might be “tied” to that reservation, especially if you use “Booking.com” which will charge you for late cancellations. I hope that all helps.