Day 4: Pasajes to Llanos de Someron (Chanos)

Day 4: Pasajes to Llanos de Someron (Chanos)

Today we could have taken a much shorter route to get from Pajares to Llanos de Someron (Chanos) where we are staying tonight – 5 km as opposed to 15.4 km. We took the long way (hiking backward on the Camino) so we could see some of the spectacular mountain views we missed the previous day when we took a taxi. A couple of peregrinas showed us their photos and we knew we’d missed the best part of this Camino. We didn’t want to miss the opportunity of going back to see at least some of it.

Not long after we left our albergue in Pajares a friendly Spanish woman approached us wanting to chat. We got into quite a long conversation even though she knew no English and I know very little Spanish. She seemed to think it wasn’t wise for us to hike back to Puerto de Pajares, a very steep uphill climb. Eventually she shrugged her shoulders when she realized how determined we were and wished us a “Buen Camino.”

She was right about it being a hard hike. The trails were very rough and steep, but we were well rewarded the whole way by the gorgeous scenery. The weather was good, there was a breeze that kept the pesky black flies away most of the time, and there were plenty of cattle, horses, and one mule to chat with on the route. 

We only met one pilgrim walking the Camino in the right direction. We had met him the previous day in Buiza and he was surprised that we old folks got ahead of him. Of course we confessed to have taken a taxi.

We are here tonight at a beautiful, new Albergue Cascoxu with Tania, the Russian expat who lives in Berlin whom we met back in Buiza. Our hospitalero was expecting more peregrinos tonight but, unfortunately, they didn’t show up. The three of us enjoyed a delicious home cooked meal together. The pumpkin cream soup was the best!

18 thoughts on “Day 4: Pasajes to Llanos de Someron (Chanos)

  1. Bravo! You guys are making great Progress ! Sometimes personal goals and ETA’s need to be adjusted.
    Don’t stop!! Keep your Camino in focus .

  2. We are so enjoying your journey from afar here in Canada. I love the many twists and turns. And no harm in backtracking. Many years ago when I was a university student and traveling in the Yukon I hiked the Chilkoot Trail, the gold rush route of 1898, backwards from BC to Alaska. I didn’t have the time or money to go to Alaska and then hike back to Yukon. It was a wonderful experience and we met every hiker on that route. Haha.
    Looking forward to your next instalment. Buen Camino

  3. It always amazes me that the Spanish folk who live on/ near the Camino, never tire of helping the endless stream of pilgrims. It’s part of the blessing of The Way. I love these pics Judy. VERY rugged countryside indeed, and utterly beautiful! Buen Camino

    1. So true, Kathy! The Spanish people here are so kind, always taking the time to help. This day was the one the made me decide it is my favourite Camino. Most beautiful but the hardest.

  4. What approximate elevation are you at for most of that day? It looks like your atop the range for some of it. Do you record the elevation change daily? So specific, eh?! 🤔

    1. I think we were at 1300 metres. On the post called A NEW JOURNEY BEGINS – SEPTEMBER 2022, there is a map showing the elevation for the route and it looks daunting.

  5. Somehow lost my note to you. Catching up on mail and found your post. Great pics! What an adventure you two are having! Good thing Dave wasn’t wearing red.


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