This morning, we said “Buen Camino” to 13 pilgrims. Among the last to leave was Teresa, an expat from the USA who has been living in Málaga since COVID. She loves her new home and Spain’s free healthcare system. She told about how the temperature in Málaga is “just right” — never too hot, never too cold. Edwin from Peru, with a beatific smile and most interesting hiking stick left soon after. His heartfelt “muchas gracias y adiós” in Spanish with a hand on his heart, showed the depth of his gratitude.

Janine and I both needed Ibuprofen today. Luckily, Janine managed to get some this afternoon. Her knee is swollen, which is bad news because in five days, we’ll be back on the Camino and facing the challenging downhill stretch to El Acebo. Downhills are especially hard on the knees. As for me, while lifting chairs to sweep and wash the kitchen floor, I developed a sudden trigger finger. My fingers are crossed (well, those that can still move!) that the Ibuprofen Janine shared with me will help straighten out my middle finger. What a weird Camino injury! 😂 

Tomorrow will bring a break from our usual routine. We’ve been invited next door for lunch with the monks, which is an honour. We will probably eat in silence — unless conversation is allowed. In any event it is bound to be a special experience. The cooking and serving will be done according to the Benedictine code of humility and hospitality. In return, we’ll contribute a chocolate cake and a jar of our homemade plum jam. We’ve been reminded not to take any photos, so we will simply live in the moment, without trying to capture it on camera.

Today was much quieter compared to the liveliness of yesterday. By tea time, only four pilgrims had registered at the albergue, making me all the more grateful that my birthday celebration was yesterday when we had 13 pilgrims. While six of us were having tea and cake in the garden, another pilgrim arrived by bike, towing his little terrier in a “trailer.” The dog was adorable, but the pilgrim’s story was tragic. He’s cycling the Camino in honour of his brother, who was hit by a car while walking the Camino. We couldn’t understand all the details in Spanish, but the emotion behind his journey was obvious.

Later, during our usual stop at the bar, Janine and I had conversations with three other patrons. One was an American woman from New York who was walking the Camino to mark the fifth anniversary of her son’s death. She’s physically struggling and said she would never attempt the Camino again, but her determination to make it to Santiago is strong. We also spoke with two men from Florida, and it was surprising how quickly the conversation turned to politics. They made their political point-of-view clear almost immediately. We were all on the same side, thankfully! 😅 The Camino certainly brings together a wide range of people, each with their own unique stories.

Two more pilgrims from New Zealand arrived late in the evening, bringing our grand total to seven pilgrims from five countries for the day.