Breakfast this morning at our hotel was absolutely the best – an incredible buffet, with hot and cold options. As if that wasn’t enough, Cole Porter tunes were being played live on the grand piano. Totally satisfied, we set off for what we thought would be a 22 km cocoon-in-rain-ponchos kind of day. It was for much of the day.

Instead of taking the Coastal Camino route, we took the “Litoral” route, hugging the ocean’s edge most of the way. The weather was cool, with the wind whipping around us. Dave was particularly happy about the wind, calling it ideal for capturing videos. 

We were concerned about the lack of coffee stops or washrooms on the Litoral route, but after ten kilometers, we came across both at a small, bustling café with steamy windows. After another nine kilometers, we found the local version of “Jiffy Johns” locked, so we decided to get Uber to take us the final four kilometres. Within minutes, Pedro arrived and whisked us off to Vila Praia de Âncora, navigating the steep, narrow streets that wound up the hill to Quinta da Quinhas. We were relieved not to have to tackle that uphill trek. Though we arrived before check-in time, our twin room with a private bath was ready.

We soon ventured out to find something to eat and were afraid we’d have to go back down the hill to town. Instead, we discovered a cafe just a six minute walk away. It was tucked into what felt like the middle of nowhere. Its menu was simple, with items we couldn’t translate, so we settled for something familiar: soup and a sandwich. The old man running the place was friendly, but spoke no English. His wife remained busy in the back. Just one other couple came in while we were there and left after a small cup of coffee.

As we ate, the proprietor was watching an American documentary with Portuguese sub-titles. It was set in a Las Vegas jail, with Spanish-looking gangsters. The show made for an oddly entertaining backdrop to our meal.

Before we left the restaurant, we noticed a potential fire hazard: a stove with a stovepipe that made a sharp right angle and exited straight out the side door. As we stepped outside, we were relieved to see the chimney taking another sharp turn to clear the roofline. Small, quirky details like this make for some memorable moments. 

After we finished, we explored the area and realized the restaurant wasn’t as isolated as it seemed. A beautiful stone chapel sat perched on a hill overlooking the cafe. Curious, we climbed up to take a closer look. We even found a heart-shaped swing and couldn’t resist giving it a go, feeling like kids again.