Today was one of those days that kept getting better and better! 😃 It started with us cocooned in our rain gear as a steady drizzle followed us from Pontevedra. We soon reached the crossroads where an important decision had to be made: to continue along the central route to Santiago or branch off to the Variante Espiritual. The pilgrims around us carried on straight to Santiago, but we turned left, having already chosen to walk the Variante Espiritual.

Coming down into Poio, we decided to visit the Monastery of San Juan de Poio. One of its major highlights is the massive 80-meter mosaic wrapping around three sides of the cloisters, showing key locations on the Camino Francés. It was designed by Czech artist Antoine Machourek and created from 1989-92. Unfortunately he died in 1991. Inside the church, there were 300 perfectly aligned graves set into the floor, and numbered—200 adults and 100 children—which was the parish cemetery until 1883. Walking through history like that made me reflect on the countless lives that came before us.

After walking a total of 11 kilometers (or 19 kilometres according to Dave’s smart watch by the end of the day), we are back at Hotel Combarro. Soon after we checked in, Dave asked, “What’s so special about Combarro and what makes it a tourist destination?” We found out this afternoon, and what we saw was totally amazing!

On our way back from the supermarket, Dave suggested we detour down to the waterfront which is actually the route of the Variante Espiritual. What a discovery! We were completely captivated by Combarro’s seafaring houses and the raised granaries. We’ve never seen a place like it, and to think we almost missed it all and only came across this area by accident. Dave summed it up perfectly as we returned to the hotel: “Now I know why we’re taking the Espiritual route.”

The seafaring houses at the waterfront were built in the 17th and 18th centuries. These small, terraced homes have beautifully carved stonework and colourful balconies facing the sea. The balconies, once used to store fishing gear, were painted with leftover boat paint, adding a bright splash of color. The narrow porticos below were built to provide shelter at the entrances.

Then there were the raised granaries, perched on stone posts to keep out moisture and rodents. They were used to store corn and potatoes, and their roofs were often decorated with crosses or other symbols of abundance. Early granaries were made with wicker and straw, combining practicality with a bit of artistry.

Combarro’s calvaries were originally placed at crossroads to “Christianize” pagan sites and now add a sense of mystery. These symbols have long been linked to magical places where witches and lost souls were said to gather. I even spotted a few witches here—though they were just souvenirs for sale!

To sum up our day, it was most interesting and a day of memory-making, in spite of the rain.