Today the pouring rain and the 420 metre elevation gain over seven kilometres from Combarro to Armenteira tested our resolve. It’s the steepest hill on the Camino Portuguese and we didn’t want to hike it in the pouring rain. The hotel receptionist called a taxi for us and within ten minutes we were being whisked up to the top of the hill. On the way, the taxi driver pointed out what is normally a stunning viewpoint, although no view was visible today because of the cloud cover.

The taxi ride to the Monasterio de Armenteira was the best 22 euros spent, and the driver dropped us right at the front door. We checked out the monastery and circled the cloister, mustering up the courage to face the downpour.

Before setting off, I rolled up my pant legs, thinking it would keep my pants clean, but it didn’t take long to realize that covering my socks was a much better idea. Wet socks would simply soak into my boots – a scenario I definitely wanted to avoid.

The usual morning sounds were absent when we hit the trail out of Armenteira—no barking dogs, no crowing roosters, not even the birds sang in this weather. All we heard was the rush of the creek we were following. It was beautiful, but we could only imagine how it would have looked with sun shining through the trees. Picking our way along the riverside path was slow going at first, with big rocks, roots, and puddles forcing us to be careful. The trail took us past several abandoned water mills and even the remains of an old water-driven sawmill.

It was more than two hours before we had an opportunity to stop for coffee and decided it was time for lunch instead. What a relief it was to be indoors, watching the rain from a dry spot rather than trudging through it. Eventually we headed out again. There was only a brief, ten minute reprieve from the rain all day.

The last five kilometers felt endless, as they always do. It’s hard to believe we only walked 15 kilometers. It seemed so much longer. Honestly, we’d probably still be out there if we hadn’t taken a taxi for nine kilometres.

We finally arrived at our private room at O Legado de Ramiro in Puente Arnelas. The first thing we did was step into the shower—clothes and all—to rinse off the mud, avoiding dirty puddles in our pristine white room. Now, with everything clean, we’re hoping our clothes and boots will dry by morning. The rain is still coming down hard, and more is expected tomorrow.