Day 13: Puente Arnelas to Vilanova de Arousa

Day 13: Puente Arnelas to Vilanova de Arousa

We woke up to heavy rain again and the possibility of flooding. We dawdled for awhile in hopes that the rain would let up.

On our way out we met Sandy, a pilgrim with an interesting story to tell. Four months ago, she had a recurring dream about the Camino, which was no ordinary dream. She would close her eyes, and the dream would continue. So, she took it as a sign and booked a flight to Lisbon to walk the Camino Portuguese. For the first nine days out of Lisbon, she saw no other pilgrims. What she loved most about that stretch of the Camino was staying with local families in their homes. Unfortunately, wildfires in Portugal aggravated her asthma, so she made a detour to Fatima. Sandy’s time there was an amazing and unforgettable experience—nothing short of life-changing.

To get back on track, she took a bus to Vigo. Since Vigo is within 100 km of Santiago, she won’t qualify for a Compostela, as she hasn’t collected the required two stamps per day. However, it doesn’t matter to her—her Credential is full of stamps, and that’s what truly matters.

As we parted ways, I said, “I hope we see you again.” With certainty, Sandy replied, “We will. I know we will!” There was something magical about her confidence, and I found myself trusting that we would meet again.

By the time Dave and I finally left, the downpour had stopped just long enough to give us hope, only to start up again almost immediately. There weren’t many chances to snap photos, as we didn’t want to risk getting our phones wet, but here’s a rundown of what we saw on our walk from Puente Arnelas to Vilanova de Arousa, a stretch of about 12 km.

The trails and roads were easier today than yesterday’s steep riverside descent. There were just big puddles to navigate but, after awhile, it felt pointless to avoid them because our boots were already waterlogged, squishing with every step. We saw no pilgrims heading in our direction, only one walking in reverse. Along the way, we passed a drenched horse standing out in the field wearing a coat that wasn’t helping much to keep him/her dry. We also passed a beautiful bodega and I couldn’t help but fantasize about having wine for breakfast, as we still hadn’t eaten a meal. Soon after, we walked through a forest of eucalyptus trees, their bark peeling in long strips. When we reached the coast, we were amazed by the sight of hundreds of clam-diggers at low tide, busy getting their “catch” and having it weighed. The rakes they use have incredibly long teeth!

Once we finally arrived in Vilanova de Arousa, we treated ourselves to the biggest hamburger we’ve ever seen, along with a huge plate of fries. One hamburger would probably have satisfied both of us but we each had our own and didn’t leave anything behind. Digesting it all might take a while—definitely too much food in one sitting!

And, true to her word, who should walk in halfway through our meal but Sandy in her bright yellow Mickey Mouse poncho! It was such a joy to see her again. She’s planning to book a ticket for The Pilgrim’s Boat, the same one we’ll be taking tomorrow. I hope to hear more of her amazing story.

9 thoughts on “Day 13: Puente Arnelas to Vilanova de Arousa

  1. Again, I am reading your post and I have vivid memories of that day on the Espiritual variant. We had reserved the boat ride for 9:30 but they needed to change it to 7 AM. The boat was full . It was a bit cold , I stayed inside so not many pics of the crosses. The rain is certainly something we need to deal with. It was part of my Camino prep this year. And it worked well for me. It rained but it did not affect my mood. OK. thanks again for sharing your amazing Camino Story. Take care Judy and David. I follow you and I enjoy it very much. No rain in Vancouver today.

    1. Our boat is full, too, France. We’re inside because there’s not a lot to see in the fog. No sunrise, either. The good things are that there is coffee, juice, croissants, cake, and a stamp for our credentials. 😃

  2. Good morning Judy and Dave!
    I arrived in Raines yesterday at 5 pm from Pedron. I must have miscalculated mileage. You are right, it’s 28.5 km to Santiago, so I walked 24 km yesterday, and then some as I got lost off the path and found my lodging . I was beat. They all had dinner together, but I had lost my personality along long hills somewhere around 8 km and didn’t feel I could be a good conversationalist. You will love the walks through narrow housing out of Pedron. Be careful on the inclines, some wooded areas, well marked. My place here is an old small castle, breathtaking. I feel like Repunzel as my room is the top on the third floor.😊see you soon. Much love
    Sandy

    1. Just woke up at 8 AM – a record-breaking sleep-in. Must have needed it after that 3 km walk yesterday. 😂 What a late arrival you had yesterday, but your accommodation sounds wonderful! Enjoy your moment of arrival in Santiago. 👣

  3. Judy, fabulous!
    I remember when Craig and I meet the Shellfisher Women in a tiny Galician village, it was an all female co- op and they would only collect the clams for two weeks of the month. It was a wonderful way for them to work, earn money, have a community of friends and they fished very sustainably. I am happy you saw some on your Caminho xx

    1. It would have been interesting to meet the Shellfisher Women! We were astounded to see so many out on the beach and would have loved to learn more about how what they do, but the rain started up again so off we went.

  4. That bridge reminds me of the one between PEI and NB except it’s 13.5 km long. This one doesn’t look as long but same kind of style.

    1. Hi Tania! I thought about the Confederation Bridge when we saw this one. I was afraid we would have to cross it and thought, “What about toilets?” At least going under it provided shelter for taking photos.

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