We made it from Muxia to Cape Finisterre yesterday. The cape is about ninety kilometres from Santiago – the place where land ends and the ocean stretches out as far as the eye can see. The origins of the pilgrimage to Finisterre are mysterious, possibly dating back to pre-Christian times, when people would come to witness the “last sun of the day.” Cape Finisterre was the end of the earth. Those sailers who ventured out on ships 500 years ago,…
Before leaving Refugio Guacelmo, we read the latest heartfelt comments left by pilgrims, said our final goodbyes to the new hospitaleros, and off we went. We’d already said our farewells to the locals we met, but couldn’t resist one last look for the “8 o’clock ladies” even though we didn’t expect them to be out this early. We peeked through the window at La Posada Casper’s, hoping for a final wave from the bartenders. No one was around, so off…
I’m not exactly sure how I feel tonight. Janine and I are in limbo, neither fully hospitaleras nor pilgrims. This afternoon, we handed over the reins of carrying on Guacelmo’s warm hospitality to Chris and Shawna from Canada and Annie from the UK. Nigel left this afternoon, and tomorrow Janine and I will be back on the Camino. Janine and I went to say “good-bye” to Susanna at the supermercado, and later we had one last lively chat with the…
It was only 1°C this morning when Jake and Patricia from Ireland left. They were the first to leave, with headlamps ready, because it was still dark. By late afternoon, the temperature had swung dramatically, reaching a perfect 22°C for afternoon tea in the garden. It was our busiest day so far, with 25 pilgrims checking in from 13 countries. A beautiful festival took place with ladies dressed in traditional clothing this afternoon. We’re still not sure what the significance…
By the time I post this, Dave’s flight will be taking off and he’ll be on his way to Porto. His original flight was leaving Victoria on September 16th, but it looks like Friday the 13th is his lucky day! (Thank you, Dennis, for not letting the Air Canada Airline strike interrupt Dave’s Camino.) It was an unusual morning. Sadly, I didn’t say “Adios y Buen Camino” to any pilgrims. There is something missing when you don’t see them off….
Today I’m feeling so much gratitude! Thank you so much, everyone, for your thoughtful “Happy Birthday” messages! ♥️ It was definitely a birthday to remember — the last one in my seventies. Hard to believe! Thank you also for your suggestions on how we can make Dave’s Camino happen, despite the looming Air Canada strike. The uncertainty of whether he’d get here was like a huge question mark hanging over us. The Camino always brings its share of surprises and…
This morning, we said “Buen Camino” to 13 pilgrims. Among the last to leave was Teresa, an expat from the USA who has been living in Málaga since COVID. She loves her new home and Spain’s free healthcare system. She told about how the temperature in Málaga is “just right” — never too hot, never too cold. Edwin from Peru, with a beatific smile and most interesting hiking stick left soon after. His heartfelt “muchas gracias y adiós” in Spanish…
We couldn’t ask for better weather these days. It’s supposed to last for at least the next seven days. Today was a perfect 23°C with sunshine. Even though it is warm outside, it’s a few degrees colder indoors because of the stone walls that are at least 30” thick. I keep my fleece on in the reception area where I register pilgrims, but shed the jacket as soon as I step outdoors. After I wrote last night’s post, we had…
It’s Groundhog Day again. By 8 AM, we had wished “Buen Camino” to all our pilgrims, or so we thought. Somehow, we’d missed Edwin, who was still sound asleep in his tent out in the backyard. A ring of the bell got him up and he made his getaway after a simple breakfast of coffee, bread, jam, and leftover cake from yesterday’s tea. It’s always interesting to see the variety of departures each morning—some with leisurely goodbyes after wrapping toes…
The 17 pilgrims who stayed with us last night left this morning with big smiles, warm hugs, and heartfelt “thank you’s.” They took the time to write beautiful messages in our guest book. Yesterday, Ilaria from Italy told us how she had lost her wallet. She retraced her steps for an hour, hoping to find it, but she didn’t. Despite this setback, the “Camino provided” – a phrase often used on the Camino. Fellow pilgrims generously offered Ilaria money to…