Last night, I couldn’t wait to get back on the Camino. The yellow arrows that guide the way seemed to be urging us to get started. After walking 22.5 kilometres in six hours today, my enthusiasm might have dipped a little! Janine and I were both relieved when we finally reached our destination and could get off our feet. Putting them up on the wall while laying on the bed is best!

We left our apartment in León at 6:15 AM, the sky still in darkness. The temperature hovered around a cool 13°C—perfect weather for walking. As Janine often says, “We’re walking into the light.” At one point, we stopped at the perfect viewpoint to catch the sunrise, watching as the streaky clouds on the horizon turned a brilliant orange. 

The suburbs of León seemed endless, stretching on and on until, at last, we reached La Virgen del Camino. A very nice café  offered us and several other walkers a much-needed pause for coffee. We shared the usual questions: “Where did you start? Where are you headed?” We even met another lovely couple from Australia. The one with the longest arm was given the job of taking a selfie of us all.

Not long after, we were faced with a choice: take the historic route, which runs parallel to a national highway, or opt for the scenic route, which was 4.2 kilometers longer. We went with the scenic route. After going through urban areas, the trail led through cultivated fields and open countryside, far from the noise and hustle of the city. It was serene at first, but after a while, the monotony began to wear on us.

When we finally reached Oncina de la Valdoncina and saw a sign painted on the road advertising a “BAR,” we couldn’t have been more thrilled. We ordered tortillas, and although I was tempted by the thought of a cold beer, I knew it would drain my energy for the final stretch of our walk. I compromised with a cerveza con limón (half beer with half lemon soda), but even that might have been a mistake. 

There were a couple of things that made today’s walk especially tough. By the time we arrived in Vilar de Mazarife, the temperature had climbed to 28°C and was even higher (33C) later in the afternoon. On top of that, the 22.5 kilometers we covered were more than any of our training hikes back home. The silver lining is that WE DID IT! The next time we walk 22.5 km it will be easier. 👍 😃

Now we’re at Albergue Tío Pepe, right in the heart of the small village of Vilar de Mazarife with a population of 456. There might even be storks judging by the large nests we passed. A refreshing shower and a chance to put my feet up—literally on the wall—were exactly what I needed after today. Our room overlooks a courtyard and across from a lively bar, where laughter and chatter are constant. No matter how loud it gets, I’m sure Janine and I are so tired that we could sleep through a riot!