Today unfolded without drama, just the usual Camino challenges. We walked about 21 km and felt pretty good at the end of it. The weather was good, too, with only a light drizzle for about ten minutes first thing this morning. It stayed cool and cloudy most of the day, with the temperature eventually reaching a pleasant 20°C.

We tried to shorten the distance we’d planned to walk by taking a short train ride from Vila do Conde to Póvoa de Varzim. We walked one kilometre off the Camino to reach the station and another one kilometre to get back onto the Camino, so it didn’t help us much at all.

Póvoa de Varzim was buzzing with activity! There was noticeable police presence as a lineup of soccer fans were heading into a stadium. The waterfront walk was busy with runners, walkers, and cyclists. At one point, we came across what seemed like a beach volleyball game, but the players weren’t using their hands, only their chest, feet, and heads. It was fascinating to watch, and they were incredibly good.

We finally broke free of the urban sprawl after about five kilometres, and then it was time for coffee on the patio of a beachside restaurant. This is where we met Kelsey and Colin from Hamilton, Ontario. They’re on their first Camino and loving every bit of it. As it turned out, they are staying at the Spot Hostel Ofir in Fao where we are tonight.

We passed a man harvesting seaweed, making massive piles and covering them with plastic. It was an interesting sight. Then we passed by stacks of plastic-covered seaweed covered with rugs and weighted down. They will eventually be cubes of dry and compact seaweed, maybe intended for making fertilizer.

We had an interesting conversation with a Portuguese golfer who was  just coming off the golf course. He told us his many names, but we chose to call him Ted as it was the easiest one to pronounce. He used to work for the Hudson’s Bay Company and had spent time in our part of the world. To our surprise, he had even golfed at Furry Creek, where we used to live!

Ted shared his thoughts on the Portuguese medical system, which he said is free for everyone, but he warned us to stay away from doctors—what he called the “medical system mafia.” He said they always find something wrong with you. At 88 years old, he was full of stories, and talking to him was a real highlight of the day.

When we finally reached Apúlia, we decided to veer off the trail in search of something to eat or maybe a taxi to cover the last four kilometres to Fao. Unfortunately, luck wasn’t on our side—the two restaurants we found were just closing their kitchens. But then, an albergue sign caught our eye, and the hospitalero there turned out to be a lifesaver. He pointed us toward a beach bar and suggested calling an Uber from there. 

We headed to the bar, enjoyed a healthy and delicious salada mista with tuna and a Nordés gin and tonic, and then called Uber. Within 16 minutes, José arrived and whisked us the final four kilometres to Fao. 

We’re loving our hostel here, including the fact that we got all our clothes washed and dried in actual machines, instead of the usual hand washing.