Distance Today: 20.5 km
Total Distance from Oviedo: 310.7 km (All Trails)
Elevation Gain: 601 metres
Weather: Sunny; warm/hot (30C+)

We had a bad night at our albergue in Melide and a morning that started far too early. All twenty beds (ten bunks) in our room were occupied and there were many disturbances that led to lack of sleep.

The albergue was noisy. First of all, the metal staircase outside the door to our room clattered and echoed whenever anyone went up or down. It was continuous because just as many people were staying in the room above us as we had in our room.

The metal bunk beds squeaked and swayed like there was an earthquake whenever the person above moved. As if that wasn’t enough, people in our room obviously wanted an early start and were up before 5:30 AM getting ready. They didn’t seem to care who they disturbed at that early hour.

With all this activity, Dave got up and started getting ready – my clue to do the same. By the time I came out of the bathroom, Dave was packed, ready to go, and laying on top of his bed, stiff as a mummy, and fully dressed, including his sun hat …and it was still dark out! As crabby as I felt, I had to chuckle (inwardly) at the look of him.

This was when we decided we needed to ensure a good night’s sleep tonight and emailed the Camino Das Ocas in Bebedeiro Burres to reserve a private room with bath for 45 Euros. Dave is definitely not happy about staying in dormitories any more. Okay!

Usually we were on the trail at about 8:20 AM but this particular morning we were off at 6:50 AM. At least it was cool at that hour, and with the temperature predicted to be as hot as yesterday, we can be somewhat happy about getting the early start.

So far the physical problems I have complained about have been blisters and a “broken” foot. I haven’t until now mentioned my lower back problem. Tonight it was so bad it made me question whether I will be able to make it to Santiago under my own steam. When I sit down I can’t get up without making a plan about how to do it without pain. The same planning goes on whenever I drop something.

Without whining any more about my physical ailment, here is the bottom line: We are going to do what many pilgrims do and that is to courier our backpacks to our next destination. Done! The 3 Euros per bag is the best money ever spent given the circumstances.

The increasing amount of graffiti is one of the big differences between the Camino Primitivo and the Camino Frances. Too bad people like Fred from France feel a need to make their mark!